Spruced-up Spokane 

A booming downtown, good parks and renewed appreciation of history have revitalized this river city

By Jeff Halstead 

For most of its short history,  Spokane has been a city of two tales.  Nurtured by a powerful river, located where major rail lines intersected, and spurred by timber, mining, and agricultural booms, a fledgling Spokane nearly tripled in size between 1900 and 1910 to stake its claim as the largest city between Seattle and Minneapolis.  But timber and mining could not support continued expansion, and it wasn’t until the 1970s that the city again seemed to burst with promise, as it prepared for Expo ’74.  The smallest city ever granted the opportunity to host a world’s fair, Spokane cleared its blighted downtown of railroad yards to create the exposition site – now Riverfront Park – but efforts to promote a lasting urban vitality fell short. 
 Today, however, yet another Spokane is beginning to emerge. Due to recent redevelopment, the downtown has been energized by shops and trendy restaurants. Spokane mixes the pleasures of an upbeat urban tempo with the delights of the quality outdoor recreation at its doorstep. 

 A river runs through it 
Once prized for its industrial power, the Spokane River today is the city’s signature feature. Each spring, the river, fueled by northern Idaho runoff, thunders through the city in an unnerving deluge, plunging 70 vertical feet before churning through the grand central arch of the Monroe Street Bridge. While the Northwest’s unrelenting drought will have diminished flows by fall, stepping from a downtown shop or restaurant to stroll the pathways of River- front Park is still sweet pleasure. 
A mixture of sweeping lawns and areas of activity – don’t miss the 1909 Looff Carousel or the kid’s slide shaped like an oversize red wagon – 100-acre Riverfront Park contains the river’s most spectacular half-mile stretch. Walkways crossing the river’s placid southern arm lead to the raucous northern channels, where, during runoff, you can stand enshrouded in mist at the foot of the upper falls’ fury. 
 

Four-person gondolas will carry you across the lower falls’ frothing skirt of water. From Riverfront Park downstream for the next dozen miles, much of the river corridor remains in its native state.  A 15-minute drive from downtown, 10,000-acre Riverside State Park preserves sweeping pine and fir forests; here you’ll see impressive bands of lava cliffs, rock benches, and turbulent stretches of water pouring through towering river-honed basalt outcroppings.  
 
Downriver Drive and Aubrey L. White Parkway, which provide access to the park, afford scenic river vistas. The 37-mile-long Spokane River Centennial Trail connects Riverside State Park to Riverfront Park and continues along the river east to the Idaho Centennial Trail and the town of Coeur d’Alene.              

Revitalizing downtown
Rising five stories above Main Avenue, River Park Square’s striking glass atrium stands as testament to Spokane’s new swagger. The shopping, cinemas, and restaurants in its nearly two blocks north and south of Main Avenue-you can cover the area in about two hours. 
 Downtown’s architectural legacy is finally being recognized. The 1898 Crescent Building, a longtime retailing landmark, hums with stores, a food court, and two trendy sit-down restaurants. You’ll find the Steam Plant Grill creatively tucked among the pipes and boilers of the city’s former steam plant facility, circa 1916. Prized for its opulent, European style interior, the 14-story 1914 Davenport Hotel designed by legendary Northwest architect Kirtland K. Cutter – was once nationally renowned.  Now it is being impeccably restored as a four-star hotel in spring 2002. The Fox Theater, a beautiful 1931 art deco movie house, will host theater and musical performances through the fall before closing for restoration. The Fox is scheduled to reopen as a performing arts center in the Spring of 2003.
 Still a work in progress, Spokane – with its stunning scenery and urban vitality – has become a city with a new tale to tell. 
                                     
Spokane travel planner
Spokane is 270 miles east of Seattle on Interstate 90. For a travel planner and a map of a self-guided history tour, contact the Spokane Area Visitor Information Center 
(509/747-3230,800/248-3230, or www.visitspokane.com). 
Area code is 509.

Attractions 
Manito Park. An enchanting mixture of rolling, tree-studded lawns, lava outcroppings, and award-winning show-case gardens. Drive the tree-lined boulevards surrounding the park, including Manito Blvd. South of the park and 21st Ave., west of the park. Park Dr. and Grand Blvd. 
625-6200.

Northwest Museum of Arts & Culture. Formerly the Cheney Cowles Museum, the expanded institution will reopen on December 5, 2001. 2316 W. First Ave.; 456-3931 or www.northwestmuseum.org 

Riverfront Park. This 100-acre park is in the heart of downtown, north of Spokane Falls Blvd. 625-6000, or www.spokaneriverfrontpark.com 

Riverside State Park. Hike, mountain-bike, or ride a horse in the equestrian area and visit the Spokane House Interpretive Center, site of the first fur-trading post in the state. On Aubrey L. White Pkwy., 2 miles south of Rifle Club Rd.; 456-3964

Shopping 
Auntie’s Bookstore. The city’s largest independent bookseller. 402 W. Main Ave.; 838-0206
Crescent Court. Shops and rest-aurants in the Crescent Building. 707 W. Main St.; 459-6109.
Douglas Gallery. Features the work of internationally known artists. Closed Sun-Mon. 120 N. Wall St.; 624-4179.
4 Seasons Coffee Co. They were concocting tasty blends long before the espresso craze wired the North-west. 222 N. Howard St.; 747-2315
River Park Square. You’ll find restaurants and 26 specialty retailers. 
808 W. Main Ave.; 363-0304

Dining 
Clinkerdagger. Set in a historic flour mil with views of the Spokane River, the restaurant serves steaks, fresh fish, and chops. 621 W. Mallon Ave.; 328-5965
Knight’s Diner. This is one of Spokane’s favorite breakfast spots – in a restored train car. Closed Mon. 2909 N. Market St.; 484-0015 
Luna. Try the coconut-curry prawns on the outdoor patio of this popular neighborhood restaurant. 5620 S. Perry St.; 448-2383
Steam Plant Grill. Don’t miss two popular entrees: the Jack Daniel’s porterhouse steak and the tri-pepper-crusted sirloin. 159 S. Lincoln in Steam Plant Square; 777-3900.

Lodging 
Fotheringham House Bed & Breakfast. A beautiful restored Victorian home with four guest bedrooms; children ages 12 and older are welcome. From $95. 2128 W. Second Ave.; 838-1891 or www.fotheringham.net.
Hotel Lusso. A 48-room boutique hotel with Italian flair. From $165. North 1 Post St.; 747-9750 or www.hotellusso.com